Having a fire pit is great for every backyard or garden as they are easy to install, portable, versatile, and high functional. A fire pit has kept you warm during cold, chilly night or even for cooking. The downside to having a conventional fire pit can leave you spending over thousands of dollars along with installation costs and labour. But if a great homey fire pit is what you want, why not make one yourself? Don’t know how to get started or what style of the fire pit you want? Well, we can help you with that. Here you will find the 12 Fire Pit Design Ideas That You Can Build.
If you’re going to the traditional basic fire pit with a medieval look, this deep five-layer stone fire pit will allow you to build a nice sized fire without any worries of it climbing out.
Materials and Tools
- Ruler – to measure the size of the diameter
- Long Screws or Ground Markers – for the layout mark
- Stones – make sure it’s safe and fire appropriate
How to make a DIY Fire Pit
Step 1: Mark the Shape and Size of Your Fire Pit
Determine the size and shape of your fire pit. We aim for 18” in diameter.
Step 2: Dig about 18 Inches of Soil
Once you have determined the area of your fire pit, begin digging around 18 inches deep of soil. Make sure that the terrain is on an even level.
Step 3: Pour the Materials
Fill in the hole with gravel for proper drainage, and then fill it up with sand to level it. Once the sand it elevated, start laying the stones around the fire pit, but be sure to leave a few minor opening in between for extra airflow. Continue until you have reached your desired height. Many usually aim for 4-5 layers of stone, depending on the height.
Step 4:Light it up to test
Throw in some wood and light it up to test how efficient it works.
Not all fire pits need wood to keep you warm and provide pretty flames. So what’s the secret to making a fire pit without any wood? Eco-fuel. It costs way less than those large fire logs, look modern too, and will keep the environment clean.
Materials and Tools
- Decorative river stones or any other inflammatory material
- Large container – metal, ceramic, glass, depending on your taste
- Eco-fuel Cans – 100% biodegradable and only costs a few dollars
How to make an Eco-Friendly Fire Pit
Step 1: Decide on Your Location
Place your fire pit container in a set location, preferably with seating around it.
Step 2: Fill the fire pit container with selected materials
Once the container is arranged, fill it with the selective material like river stones or glass pebbles.
Step 3: Place 2-3 eco-fuel cans
Simply place the eco-fuel cans on top of the stones or hide them under the material. Make sure they still have room for the light.
Step 4: Light it up
When your arrangement is set, use a lighter to test the cans. Be sure to keep it away from any inflammables.
A modern concrete fire pit is a great centrepiece for your outdoor patio and can be built in just a single weekend. The project isn’t exactly difficult though it may be physical and time consuming. It is important to construct concrete fireplaces careful as the moisture trapped inside the concrete may expand and crack when exposed to high amounts of heat. You can line the inside of the fire pit with fire bricks and fill the interior with lava rock to ensure that the heat won’t come into direct contact with the concrete.
Materials and Tools
- Quikrete 5000 (about 20-25)
- Quikrete ¾” Gravel
- Fire Bricks
- Lava rock
- 18 Volt Cordless Drill
- 18 Volt Circular Saw
- 10” Sliding Compound Miter Saw with attached laser
How to make a Modern DIY Concrete Fire Pit
Step 1: Find a Concrete Fire Pit Plan Online
You can find some online or design one yourself.
Step 2: Cut the Wood
Make 4 panels that are 43.5 inches long as each panel is made from 2 pieces each of 2x6 and 2x4. Use the circular saw or compound mitre saw to cut them. Attach the panels together at the corners by using 6” L-brackets.
Step 3: Assemblethe Panels
Use 15 inches long pieces of 2x4 and 2.5” deck screws to make the four large panels to use as the outer frame.
Step 4: Build the Inner Frame
The interior frame should be made from 2 panels that are 23 inches long and 2 panels that are 20 inches long. Make sure to place the L-brackets on the inner corners since the outside bracketswill be buried in concrete.
Step 5: Place the Frame on Desired Area
Mark the hole about 6 inches in around the outside perimeter and place the frame in the desired area.
Step 6: Begin Digging
If you’re building in a cold region, dig about 8 inches down and use a stamper to flatten the soil at the bottom of the hole for an even level.
Step 7: Layer the Gravel
Spread 3.5 inches of Quikrete and ¾” gravel in the bottom of the hole and rake it to level the bottom floor before you stamp it down.
Step 8: Place the Wooden Formwork
Place the wooden frames into the proper position and measure the distance from the inner and outer frame to make sure that the interior is properly cantered.
Step 9: Secure the Form Work
Once you have placed the frame in the right position, use extra 2x3 scraps and deck screws to lock them into position. You can use a rubber mallet to knock the corners down to make it more level.
Step 10: Place the Rebar
Drive the rebar through the gravel and straight into the ground.
Step 11: Pour the 1st layer of Concrete
Start the first layer with a 3.5” deep fill of concrete to serve as a strong foundation of the fire pit. Let the concrete mix cure for at least 24 hours before laying the brick.
Step 12: Lay Down the Brick
Once the concrete has cured and completely dried, lay the fire brick down and mix the mortar per instructions. Make sure to spread the mortar on the side of the bricks before you place them directly to make sure they stick together.
Step 13: Pour More Concrete
Once the mortar is set, pour 5 more inches of concrete into the formwork. Add an additional rebar to make sure that the layers were bonded together properly.
Step 14: Pour the Final Layer of Concrete
As the previous layer of concrete has dried for about 24 hours, pour the final layer and use a hoe to push the concrete down.
Step 15: Screed the Top
Use a flat piece of wood to screen the top of the concrete and work back and forth to an even level.
Step 16: Use a Float
Let the concrete set for about half an hour, then use a metal float to work the surface.
Step 17: Steel Trowel
Wait 1 hour and use a steel trowel to finish off the concrete. Make sure to create a smooth and flat finish.
Step 18: Keep Moist + Cover
Once the surface is flat and smooth, cover the concrete with boards and a sheet to make sure that nothing can touch the wet concrete. You can use a garden hose to keep the concrete moist for 48 hours.
Step 19: Remove the Formwork
Begin removing the outer frame and work into the tricky part of the inner frame, which requires minor cuts from a circular saw. After about 20 minutes, use a hammer and a pry bar to get the wood out and say the concrete with a hose to clean off any residue.
Step 20: Pour in Lava Rock
Pour 2 buckets of lava rocks into the fire pit to create a nice, well-drained area and cover at least 3.5 inches of foundation.
Step 21: Let the Concrete Cure for 30 Days
Let the concrete pit fire set for about 30 days, in possible before lighting a fire. It is also recommended to not let a fire burn for more than 2 hours during the first few months as it takes the concrete a while to cure.
A masonry fire pit will easily become the main attraction of your backyard – with or without the actual fire. In this tutorial, you may notice the higher back wall that is used to help prevent any smoke or wind blowing around.
Materials and Tools
- Eldorado 12x48 mantle – 6
- Arriscraft stone – 70 sft
- 30 pieces of 4 inch blocks
- 5 bags of Type S Mortar
- 20 bags of quikrete 5000
- Closure bricks
- 1 bag of fireclay
How to build a Masonry Fire Pit
Step 1: Choose a Concept
Decide what type of masonry fire pit you want to build. Look for pictures online for inspiration and a good look on how you want your design to be. Consider adding a seating arrangement around the fire pit to upscale the design.
Step 2: Begin with the Interior
Start with the foundation of the interior and use a tiller to remove and soften up the dirt. Mix the quikrete and pour the concrete. Make sure to get it as level as possible. Lay down the 4th block as the bricks at the bottom are evenly arranged.
Step 3: Start the Brick Pattern
Choose a pattern for the bricks; the herringbone is one of the most appealing as there is no exact brick structure. Mix one bag of the S type mortar and add a bag of fireclay. This helps to keep the brick from cooking into the block.
Step 4: Place the Stones
Place the stones along the same course of the bricks. Make sure to you do not stagger the lines.
Step 5: Cap it all off
The top caps are usually measured at 12 x 48“as the layout of the pit is around 45”for some cuts.
Create an inviting area to hang out around the fire with this stone fire pit to help create this ambiance.
Materials and Tools
- 5 gallon bucket
- Concrete mix
- At least 2 bags of natural stones
How to build a Stone Fire Pit
Step 1: Make a Layout Design
Plan out how you want to build the stone fire pit with proper measurements. Create a mock up by laying down two concrete stepping stones as the base of the fire pit.
Step 2: Wet the Area
Use a hose to water down the area where you will be adding the stones to.
Step 3: Combine Concert and Stones
Place your first layer of stone and apple concrete to the floor so the stone pieces will attach. Repeat this step until you start building the shape of the fire pit. Make sure to add concrete along the joints and smoothen out the soft spots.
Step 4: Let it Cure
Be sure the let the structure dry at least 24 hours and finish with spraying water all over the stones to clean off any concrete residue.
Step 5: Enjoy
Once the structure it properly cured and in place, you can light the fire, sit back and relax.
If you want a small fire pit design that will be easy to distinguish and well as easy on the pocket, using concrete tree rings should do the job. You can allow a very controlled campfire without worrying about any risk of sparks blowing over. Using concrete tree rings are budget-friendly and won’t cost you a fortune (usually $2-3 each).
Materials and Tools
- 2 cubic ft. of small pebbles, stones, decorative rock, or gravel
- 4 sections if 14” diameter inside concrete tree ring
- 14’ diameter grill
How to make a Concrete Tree Rings Fire Pit
Step 1: Construct Inner Ring
Choose an area of your backyard that has an even level, or create one yourself in the desired area. This isn’t exactly necessary but you can spray your pit area with a weed killer to make the spot bare. Place a layer of weed barrier cloth under the tree ring to prevent any grass or weed from growing its way into the pit. The rings will be more stable on the bare ground. TO make the fire pit look decent, turn the fluted top sections upside down so they can interlock with the opposite fluted bottom sections to make them stacked. Notice how they won’t fit perfectly, but this will create a unique décor and will be highly noticeable.
Step 2: Add the Outer Ring
Give the fire pit more mass by surrounding the inner ring with an outer ring of 24” section in diameter. The outer ring will have a tab kind of locking design which will help stabilize the rings even when stacked.
Step 3: Fill in the Void
Once the outer ring is placed, you will notice the 3 inch gap between the two rings. You may also notice that the 14” ring is about 1” short than the outer ring. This can be easily solved by filling the void with small stones. This part may take a bit of trial and error, but will look great when it is completed. Continue filling the voids until you are satisfied with the placement.
Step 4: Install the Grill
If you chose a grill with attached legs, make sure to unscrew the connecting screws and remove the legs. Continue to place the grill at the centre of the fire pit. Once the grill is in its proper space, test it out by lighting a fire and make sure to set the vent opening to however necessary before you put the grill in its place. I recommend setting it to be about half open for small fires.
Step 5: Light it up!
Grab your marshmallows and hot dogs and enjoy your new fire pit.
Materials and Tools
- Metal planter with an edge – could substitute for ceramic or terra cotta
- Marine Silicone
- Glass Frames
- Small rocks
- Metal mesh
- Gel fuel
How to make a Mini Personal Fire Pit
Step 1: Make the Top Glass Box
Start the project by making a glass box. Do this by running a thin bead of silicone along the side of a glass panel then place another piece of glass over the silicone edge. Firmly press down and hold for a few minutes. Continue with the second edge by propping both sides up with a jar or books to firmly keep them straight until they completely dry. After the silicone has finally set, run a thin bead of silicone on both sides of the glass that is exposed and gently place the final glass between the edges. Just be careful not to smear the silicone. Let the glass box dry for at least 20 minutes.
Once the silicone dries, clean up the residue with a razor and run a final bead of silicone around the entire bottom edge of the box. Place the box with the silicone edge over the metal planter to make sure there is enough edge near the centre for the metal mesh to rest on.
Step 2: Make the Pit
Once the structure is dried, cut a piece of mesh to fit exactly inside the box. Place an opened can of gel fuel in the centre of the metal planter then the mesh to cover the entire surface.
Loosely cover the mesh with rocks, but leave some space in between to allow oxygen to pass through.
Step 3: Light the Fire
Clear up any rocks that may get in the way of the gel fuel can carefully light the gel fuel. Sit back, relax and enjoy!
Note: Take note of the gel fuel as gel cooking fuel will only create heat and not the actual flame. Use rocks that are heavy.
Add a touch of colour to your backyard fire pit with this mosaic fire pit.
Materials and Tools
- Mosaic Tiles
- Concrete pavers
- Retention blocks
- Outdoor gout
How to build a Mosaic Fire Pit
Step 1: Dig the Space
Start by diffing out all of the grass in your desired area and level the ground into an even square.
Step 2: Place the Concrete pieces down
Place the concrete retention pieces into the shape of a circle centred on the pavers. When the retention pieces are in place use, outdoor gout to firmly hold them in place. Once the grout is completely dry, the fire pit will be solidly in place.
Step 3: Décor with Mosaic Tiles
Wait at least 48 hours to a week until the Concrete is fully dried. Use a hammer to break the tiles into smaller pieces and use a sticky tile adhesive paper to place the tiles around the fire pit before you grout them down.
Step 4: Light it up
Throw in some burning wood and enjoy your new mosaic fire pit.
Create a propane fire pit from just copper fittings and a flower pot. This method is easy to follow with available copper fittings and tubing’s.
Materials & Tools
- 1 – 10’ roll of .5” of bendable copper tubing
- 1 – 5’ section of a 3/4th rigid copper tubing
- 3 pcs – 3/4th” copper pipe caps
- 3 pcs – ½” to ¾” copper Ts
- 1- ½” MPT to 3/8” flare adapter
- 2 large silicone 0 type rins
- 1 – 10 inch long propance hose
- Lead free solder
- Propane torch
- Wire brushes
- Teflon tape – for pipe fittings
- 1 – adjustable high pressure propane regulator
- 1 – 10’ roll of ¼ ” of bendable copper tubing
- 1- ½” MPT pipe nipple about 1.5 inches long
- 3 pcs – ½” coppers Ts
- 1 – ½ inch FPT 90 pipe elbow
- 2 large stainless fender washers
- 1 – Ceramic flower pot
- 1 bag of sand
- Soldering flux
- Spring Tubing bender
- Hacksaw or tubing cutter
- Power drill
- 1/16” bit for drilling holes in burner
How to make a Propane Fire Pit
Step 1: Build the Fire Pit Stand
Decide how tall you want the fire pit to stand. Build the stand to be sturdy enough to hold the flower pot – depending on the shape and size of your pot. The stand should stand as a 3 legged type stool with a ring around the top and bottom to hold for strength and stability. Make the 3 arcs meet with the ¾” and ½” T’s. Make use of the natural coil of the ½” tubing which is quite bendable and slowly increase the curve to match the flower pot. When you have finally achieved the right curvature, use the tubing cutter into 3 equal arc-lengthening segments to meet the T’s encircle pot tightly.
If your flower pot has a lip or a rim, make a circle that is big enough to let the pot rest on its rim on the copper side. With a hacksaw or tubing cutter, cut the length of the pipe to become a 5’ section of a 3/4th pipe, each leg can be up to 20” long. Once you have finally cut the 3 lets and arcs, begin to dry fit the pieces together to ensure a proper fit. For a snug fit, increase the size of the T fittings all the way around. Make an estimate on how big the lower circle should be. Use the half-inch bendable tube and carefully construct a circle by bending it until you reach the desired shape and size.
The lower circle can be placed inside or outside the legs, though keep in mind the bendable tubing is not very strong – meaning it should not be used as a foot rest. Cut the ¼ inch copper tubing into 4-6 inch sections, so that it will bend over the rim of the pot to serve as a type of retain mechanism for the pot in the stand.
Step 2: Soldering the stand
If you are not fully confident in soldering, start with the stand as enough practice for the burner. This is important as the burner needs to be tight for gas meaning joints are important. Start with the basics by cleaning the outside of the end which will be inserted into a fitting using a special wire brush inside. Aim for a clean shiny metal and apply flux paste to the end of the tube and fitting. Use your heating torch to heat the joint until you can place the solder rob to the seam. Swap the torch over the fitting and the tube and remove the torch before you apply the solder.
First, solder the caps on to the bottom of the legs, and then solder the T’s onto the tops of the legs. Flux the arcs to the T’s and tape the lower hoop to set it in place with the proper leg angle. Use a pair of pliers to hold the ¼” retainer spikes tightly in place as your solder them together.
Step 3: Solder the Burner
Basically, the burner is 2 arcs that is connected with a central by T fittings, which as a T fitting in the middle as well as which points down to the bottom of the hole.
Step 4: Assemble and Use a Leak Test
For this step, assemble everything by drilling the holes in the burner and do a leak test as this will ensure that no gas will leak through any of the pipe joints or solder. You may use a short or long pipe nipple to bridge the hole – depending on how wide the bottom of the pot is. The main purpose of the O-rings and the washers is to tightly grip the pot and prevent any sand from falling out. This will help provide some cushion when you tighten the pipe fittings. You can adjust the amount of Teflon tape application to change the number of turns needed to tighten a leak-free seal.
Step 5: Drill Holes in the Burner
Once you have ensured that there any no leaks in your system, you can start to introduce the leakers. Start off by unscrewing the burner ass from the system and wipe up and Teflon residue to ensure that none will fall into the lines that are exposed. Take a 1/16” drill bit and drill a hold into the side bottom of your burner every other inch. It is important to drill the bottom to help keep the sand out. When the holes are completely drilled, you can reapply Teflon and screw the burner back into the pot and pipe nipple.
Step 6: Fill in with sand and test
Pour sand into the flowerpot in the desired amount and connect the gas hose to the flare fitting that is placed on the bottom. Connect the hose to the regular which will connect to the propane tank. Firmly place the pot in the copper stand once you are satisfied. Then bend the spikes over the rim and straight into the sand as they will firmly hold the pot.
Once everything is connected and properly in place, turn on the gas valve on the propane tank and slowly turn the pressure regular knob to increase the pressure until you can hear a steady gas flow. Light the top of the sand with a match or any safe flame source. Once the fire is on the sand, adjust the level of the flames y adding pressure regulator lower or higher as indicated.
Step 7: Light it up and enjoy!
Recycle an old wine barrel into a fire pit. This unique design will leave your family and guests in awe around the camp fire.
Materials & Tools
- Sandpaper of 60/80 Grit
- Belt/Sheet Sander
- Wood Stain
- Fire pit about 29”
- Wine Barrel
How to make a Wine Barrel Fire Pit
Step 1: Find a Wine Barrel
Grab a wine barrel you already have or find one online for cheap. Check out your local winery as they usually have many on stock.
Step 2: Sand Them Down
Start with 40 Grit and work your way to higher grits if necessary. Use 150 Grit for the final smoothing to sand everything down for a smooth finish.
Step 3: Stain the Wine Barrel
Make sure to wear strong, protective gloves as the stain will corrode your gloves – leading to stained hands, which you do not want. Apply the stain by lightly dipping a piece of rag onto the surface of the stain and hold down for a second or two. Begin rubbing the stained rag lightly across the wood and follow the natural grain of the wood up and down. Make sure to keep the colour of the strain at an even level and rub the barrel with a clean rag to remove any excess.
Step 4: Sand the Metal Bands
Use an 80/100 grit to remove any excess stains or ruts from the metal bands.
Step 5: Place Fire Pit on Top
Once the wine barrel is stained and dried, place the bowl part of the fire pit on top of the barrel. And light it up to test it out!
Think of this as the Olympics of all Fire pits with a modern twist. The rocks blended with the concrete bowl looks quite awesome against the bright, warm flame. Best of all, it’s quite easy to make. This version of the bowl of rocks fire is not only affordable, but also water-resistant as it has a sleek, modern style. The pit fire is also study while still portable as it uses gel fuel. All you need is proper prep and this could be ready to go within a few hours and will cost you less than $50 in materials.
Materials & Tools
- Concrete Mix
- Extra-large bowl – to use for the exterior mold (aim for at least 18” diameter)
- Large bowl for the interior mold (aim for at least 15” diameter)
- Large bucket to mix
- Non-Stick Cooking Spray – can substitute with a paint brush and cooking oil
- Med-duty masonry trowel
- Heavy-duty objects – such as rocks or exercise weights
- Fire safe decorative stones
- Gel fireplace fuel canisters
- Replacement grill gate (aim for 14.5” diameter
- Proper Safety gear:
- Goggles or Safety Glasses
- Refinishing gloves
- 3M Trekk Protection N95 rate dust mask
- Plastic or drop clothes
How to make a Bowl of Rocks Fire Pit
Step 1: Cast the Bowl
Before you begin this project, make sure you have the right materials and proper safety gear. For the main fire bowl, aim for the largest mixing bowl you can find. You can look into large plastic punch bowls for the outside and a stainless mixing for the inside. Even though working with concrete is simple, it does require physical labor as it can be fairly heavy and difficult to mix by hand. It is also important to wear the right properly safety gear before you prep and throughout working on the project. This will protect your skin, eyes, and respiratory system. Cover your work area with plastic and work in a well-ventilated area.
- Once you have finished your prep, spray the desired molds with oil or non-stick cooking spray. Just like baking, this will help remove the concrete effortlessly once it’s become dry stone. You don’t need to apply a large amount as an even, thin layer will do just fine.
- Mix the concrete. It is a bit hard to determine the exact amount of how much you will need, so better to be safe than sorry and mix more than you think you may need. Ideally, 1/3 of a bag might work, though it will depend on the size of your bowl. *Be sure to wear your safety protectant gear as this is the most crucial time when the particulates are irritants will be flying around.
- Use the trowl to start adding the concert mix onto the outer mold. Fill the mold until it reaches about half way full, then examine the inner mold to see how high the concrete will reach as it comes to the side. It’s completely fine to test the inner mold a few times – just make sure you have enough non-stick spray. Once you have achieved the adjusted level, use rocks or weights to keep the bowl in place.
- Make sure to watch how you place the inner mold and how it is centered to avoid any uneven thickness. Keep an eye out on the lips of the bowls for an even, symmetrical placement and adjust the weight to make sure your inner bowl offers enough space while keeping a strong, thick structure.
- To achieve a smooth finished surface, use a product with a motor to vibrate the bowl. This will help remove any tiny air bubbles inside the mold and result in a smooth finish. A saw (without the blade), powered sander, immersion blender, or a rotary tool will do the trick.
- Once the mold is settled, allow the concrete to dry for at least 48 hours. This is ensure that the concrete is fully set.
Step 2: Finishing the Bowl
- Once the concrete has completely dried, be sure to carefully separate it from the mold. You can use a rubber mallet to lightly tap it and remove the inner bowl. The setting should be solid, so it should be easy to remove from the bowl.
- Use sand paper or a coarse sanding pad to clean the top lip and sand it down to a nice rounded profile. Keep in mind that this will generate a load of dust so be sure to wear your safety gear.
- Clean up the debris and sand it down once more to smoothen the bowl up.
Step 3: Assemble Fire Pit
- Once you are finished, place the gel fuel canisters at the center inside. You can find this at your local outdoor recreation store as well as home improvement stores.
- Place the grill in the bowl. If you cannot find one that will stay on the bowl nicely, you can always buy a larger size and cut it down to ideal size with a grinder or hacksaw.
- Cover the grate with a layer of fire safe rocks. Mexican beach pebbles are quite ideal as they are commonly used with fire. Just be sure to use the appropriate rocks for the purpose.
Step 4: Light Up to Try!
The flames may not be as big as the size of a bonfire but the gel canisters can add a bit of heat and a modern ambiance. For about $40 in materials alone, which many are also reusable, this is a great easy-to-use /easy-to-build fire pit that many charge at least $400 for.
Materials & Tools
- Cobble stones
How to build a Garden Fire Pit
Step 1: Start Digging
Use a pole to establish the center of the fire pit and use this as a reference point. Grab some spray-painta string to mark the edge of the fire pit and begin digging. Determine the right height and add sand and cobblestones.
Step 2: Add Gravel
Stamp firmly on at least 5-7 centimeters of gravel.
Step 3: Add Sand
Use your cobble stone as a reference to determine the amount of sand needed. Stamping is not needed but make sure the placement is evenly leveled.
Step 4: Lay down the cobbles
Use the cobble reference point to make 2-3 reference points at the outer perimeter. Then make the inner perimeter and use a string with your determined radius. Make sure to lay down spokes to keep the placement leveled properly at all times to help you achieve the perfect placement for the rest of the cobbles.
Step 5: Finalize the Cobbles
Start from the inside out and make your way with the stones. Make sure not to add any sand between the cobbles until you are completely finished.
Step 6: Check the placement
Check the cobbles and assesse the placement to make sure your work is done properly. You can easily move the sand around to raise and lower each cobble.
Step 7: Complete the fire pit
Once all of the cobbles are properly placed, pour sand all over the top of the cobbles and water it down. Repeat this process continuously to dry the sand and set the fire pit in place.
Bottom Line: Conclusion
Fire pits are a great addition to the home, regardless of the season. Fire pits will keep you warm during the fall and winter months and make a great outdoor grill during the spring and summer season. Make sure to check out these 12 fire pit design ideas that you can build yourself and make your home’s general style and décor.